How to Remove Tile Flooring?

Quick Answer

To remove tile flooring, break the first tile in the centre with a hammer, drive a brick chisel under the broken pieces at a low angle, and work outward from there. For large areas, rent an electric or pneumatic floor scraper. After every tile is up, scrape the remaining thinset off the substrate with a 4 inch floor scraper or grind it with a diamond cup wheel for a fresh-tile install over the top.

Expect 10 to 25 square feet per hour by hand, 100 to 200 square feet per hour with a powered scraper. Wear safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, and an N95 mask; thinset dust is silica.

Tools

• 3 lb hammer and 1 inch brick chisel
• Long-handled floor scraper, replaceable blades
• Rotary hammer with a tile-chisel bit (huge time saver on porcelain)
• Diamond cup wheel + angle grinder for thinset cleanup
• Shop vac, contractor bags, dust mask, safety glasses, gloves

Step-by-Step

1. Score grout lines with an oscillating tool. Stops cracks from running into adjacent tiles you want to save.
2. Break the first tile in the middle. The hardest tile is always the first one.
3. Chisel under broken edges. Low angle, parallel to the floor.
4. Bag debris as you go. Tile chips are sharp and heavy. Half-fill each bag.
5. Remove every screw that held cement backer if you also want the backer off.
6. Scrape thinset off the slab. If you can leave a coat of well-bonded thinset behind for a fresh tile install, that is fine; for a new floating floor, the slab needs to be flat and smooth.
7. Vacuum twice with a HEPA filter. Silica dust is no joke.

Asbestos Warning

Tile installed before 1989 in the US (or before 1999 in the UK) may sit on cutback adhesive that contains asbestos. If you suspect it, do not sand or grind. Send a sample to a certified lab ($30 to $60) and only remove after a positive test if you hold the right respirator and PPE. The EPA 2024 chrysotile rule (epa.gov/asbestos) lays out the disposal route.

Frequently Asked Questions

What flatness does the subfloor need?

The industry default is 3/16 inch deviation over a 10 foot span (about 5 mm over 3 metres). Floating floors, rigid-core LVP, and engineered hardwood all share that spec. Tile is stricter at 1/8 inch over 10 feet because thinset cannot bridge a wavy slab.

How long should materials acclimate on site?

48 hours for laminate and LVP, 7 to 14 days for solid and engineered hardwood (until plank moisture content is within 2 to 4 percent of the subfloor). Skip it and you risk gapping in winter or cupping in summer.

Does this work over radiant heat?

Most rigid-core LVP, engineered hardwood, and porcelain tile are radiant-heat rated up to about 82F (28C) at the subfloor. Solid hardwood and bamboo usually are not. Always confirm the manufacturer spec before laying.

Is it the same in the UK?

The product categories and installation rules are nearly identical. UK retailers like B&Q, Wickes, Carpetright, and Topps Tiles carry the same Shaw / Mohawk / COREtec equivalents with British Standard labelling (BS EN 13329 for laminate, BS EN ISO 10874 for resilient flooring).

Pro Tips From the Trade

• Order 10 percent waste. Bump to 15 percent on diagonal layouts, herringbone, or rooms with lots of cutouts. Future repair planks need the same dye lot.
• Photograph the install. Subfloor, vapour barrier, expansion gaps, transitions. Warranty claims hinge on documentation.
• Keep one full carton. Same production run, stored flat in conditioned space. It is the only colour-true repair source you will ever have.
• Run planks toward the light. Parallel to the longest wall or toward the main window so seams disappear instead of catching shadows.
• Test moisture. Tape a 2 ft square of plastic to a concrete slab for 72 hours; condensation underneath means a moisture problem to solve before any flooring goes down.

Bottom Line

The product matters less than the prep. A flat, dry, clean subfloor with correct underlayment and proper acclimation will make a mid-priced floor outperform a premium one installed badly. Get those four basics right, follow the manufacturer's spec sheet, and you will not see a single one of the common failure modes (cupping, gapping, lifting, telegraphing) in the first decade.

Quick Buying Checklist

• Confirm the manufacturer's warranty covers your install path (residential vs commercial, DIY vs professional). Most warranties void automatically if you skip moisture testing, acclimation, or the specified underlayment.
• Order 10 to 15 percent extra from the same production lot. Future repair planks have to match the dye and texture exactly, and lot-to-lot variation is real even within a single brand.
• Match the underlayment to the product. The wrong foam (too thick, too soft, or wrong density) is the most common reason click joints fail in year two.
• Plan transitions early. Reducers, T-mouldings, stair nosings, and undercut door casings cost three times more if you order them after the install.
• Photograph the prep work. Subfloor, moisture readings, vapour barrier, expansion gaps. Most warranty claims get denied for lack of documentation.

Cross-reference the manufacturer's installation guide against the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) install best practices before you start. Mismatches happen, and the manufacturer guide wins for warranty purposes while the NWFA guide wins on long-term durability. When both agree, follow them to the letter and the floor will outlive its written warranty.